An acutely curated, insider-approved, not-afraid-to-get-a-little-gritty guide to the world’s shiniest city
Detail from the Al Farooq Mosque in Dubai’s Al Fahidi Historic District. Photo: Anna Nielsen.An acutely curated, insider-approved, not-afraid-to-get-a-little-gritty guide to the world’s shiniest city
Detail from the Al Farooq Mosque in Dubai’s Al Fahidi Historic District. Photo: Anna Nielsen.By Laura Dannen Redman, Nicola Chilton, Avni Doshi, and Sara Hamdan /
October 22, 2024
WHAT’S IN
THIS GUIDE
Dubai resident and acclaimed novelist Avni Doshi pierces the city’s showy facade to reveal its diversity, its history, and its artistic soul
An evening view of Dubai’s Sheikh Zayed Road, with the torus-shaped Museum of the Future at the center. Photo: Courtesy Dubai Economy + Tourism. A visit to Dubai is often a frictionless flight into a spectacle of opulence, where the ground seems incidental, movable, mercurial. Where a creek can turn into a canal, and open sea can be suddenly dotted with reclaimed islands. Dubai is a place of its own making, an author writing a fantasy of itself. If it were a character in a fable, Dubai might be a shimmering Peter Pan, flying and forever young: Time halts and perpetual sun drenches the skyline in oppressive, endless light — a city that, like Peter Pan, has no shadow.
Only after looking closer do most people find shade under the glorious date palms and hearty ghaf trees that grow throughout the city. Search for respite and you will find a different Dubai persists, away from the labyrinthine shopping malls, metallic towers piercing the sky, and reflective surfaces.
Mushrooming throughout the city are green spaces and parks for young families, and in the nostalgic, sand-colored Al Shindagha district and narrow-laned Al Fahidi are institutions that tell alternative histories of Dubai, from its culture of coffee to its deep relationship to the sea. Contemporary art has also found a home here, with different voices mingling in literary festivals and concerts, and varied aesthetics meeting on the walls of bustling art fairs and museums. In Alserkal Avenue, warehouses have been transformed into vibrant and trendy galleries, bringing together the work of artists from around the region and the world. Try a cozy café in one of the 1970s bungalows lining Beach Road in Jumeirah, pass by a farmers market and taste honey made by native bees, visit a fabric store in Al Satwa and ask the in-house tailor to dress you in the refined silhouettes you’ve been admiring on Emirati women, or have a swim at any of the lively public beaches, which are minutes away from you anywhere in the city.
A short drive inland will bring you to miles and miles of untouched desert, where locals have their favorite spots for stargazing around campfires. And just beyond the city, look for cretaceous fossils at the Mleiha Archaeological Centre and visit the exquisite House of Wisdom library in Sharjah; trek Jebel Jais, the tallest peak in the UAE, in Ras al Khaimah; and visit the Louvre and other world-class cultural institutions in Abu Dhabi.
Throughout Dubai, you will encounter people from every corner of the world, some who will remember Dubai before it was part of a nation, and who are as deeply rooted in this place as the trees. They are the true keepers of this city’s history, the ones who will show you culinary delights in every corner, from a tender bite of koobideh to the hand-pulled noodles in a warming bowl of ramen. Being from elsewhere is not an offense in Dubai; it is the gift we bring to each other. Whether in Bur Dubai or Business Bay, the musical lilt of Urdu, Swahili, and Arabic can be heard on a single street. In Deira, the scent of pomegranate molasses simmering in a masgouf mingles with the tang of dried chili in a Chettinad fish fry. The soul of the city is found in differences shared and celebrated, often in the warmth of a home, over long, drawn-out meals and deep conversations. In this Dubai, where many of us have journeyed alone, families are often chosen, and all the more cherished.
What began in 2007 as a family-run warehouse business in the industrial Al Quoz section of Dubai has become an 11.5-acre constellation of art galleries, quirky food stalls, concert venues, and offbeat cafés and restaurants. On Alserkal Avenue, street buskers with velvet voices sing as your supper emerges from a locally-run food truck. Take a walk down the pedestrianized streets into the cradle of Dubai’s cultural awakening.
—S.H.
Fiker Institute
The open-to-the-public library of this think tank encourages visitors to “confront Western-dominated narratives that have too often been conflated as universal truths.” Big ideas aside, the dark mahogany space with soaring ceilings and rows of books bathed in natural daylight inspires monklike adoration.
The Fridge
You’ll hear this event space before you see it: a Cuban band’s maracas or the harmonies of a church choir spilling into the streets. By day, sip a Roses and Silk mocktail at The Virgin Mary bar and listen to some of the best bands in Dubai rehearse, or come back for an evening show or open-mic night.
Kave
The definition of “multiuse,” with bicycle upcycling in one corner, calligraphy art in another, and B612, a specialty coffeehouse named after the planet in Le Petit Prince. From dance workshops to coffee-cup readings, this eclectic, dog-friendly spot reflects Dubai’s diversity and youthful energy.
Volte Art Projects
A $1.25 million brass-and-fiberglass, hand-sculpted baby grand piano sits in the center of this minimalist gallery opposite Kave. Crane your neck to view oversize sculpture and installations by admired Indian and Pakistani artists, or contemplate funky, flickering NFTs in a stylish space.
Cinema Akil
An independent art-house cinema (see “Spotlight”) with plush red seating showcases foreign films, documentaries, and classics from The 400 Blows to Home Alone. Frequent festivals include the popular Reel Palestine. At the door, Project Chaiwala sells traditional karak tea; try the turmeric latte spiced with fresh ginger and black pepper.
Crank
If a leisurely stroll through art galleries isn’t your speed, opt for a high-adrenaline cycling class or boot camp at this gym with an L.A. Fitness vibe and disco strobe lighting. The whole place buzzes with energy — actually, maybe it’s the protein shakes.
Wild & The Moon
Gluten-free, dairy-free, eco-friendly…and tasty? Yup. Vegans and others will want to pull up a wicker chair and sample the housemade burgers, mushroom tacos, and standout coffee. The Better Than Botox cold-pressed juice, made with aloe vera, is a must-try.
Ganache Chocolatier
Round out your walk at the homegrown chocolatier, whose swirly, mocha-toned interior looks like a confection itself. Savor your espresso with a side of Zaatar Praline truffles: a heavenly, unexpected match of thyme and dark chocolate.
Five of the most stylish shops in Dubai — and what to buy there
Nadine Kanso is the founder and designer of Dubai-based jewelry brand Bil Arabi. Her creations celebrate the modern Arab identity and language, be they everyday necklaces featuring cursive script or more ornate pieces packed with precious gemstones. She shares her picks of the best gifts and souvenirs to stuff in your suitcase.
—N.C.
Montroi
Working with skilled artisans around the world, Dubai-born brand Montroi sells perfumes made from Omani rose, travertine incense holders, and a fragrance collection produced in collaboration with One&Only Resorts. But for Kanso, the highlights are its handcrafted leather items — hand-painted passport covers, wallets, travel bags — that are “always a good gift option,” especially if personalized.
Aljoud Lootah
Emirati designer Aljoud Lootah is celebrated across the design community for her products rooted in the heritage and culture of the UAE. Handwoven traditional carpets get a contemporary spin, and mandoos chests (traditionally used to safeguard valuable items) are updated with layered camel leather, metallic studs, and brass details. Kanso’s ideal gift item is much simpler: “the perfect notebook to write about your travel experience” from Lootah’s Side Note collection.
Bil Arabi
Kanso describes her own jewelry brand as being “all about love,” and it’s her stylized version of the Arabic word for love — حب (hobb) rendered in gold, diamonds, and pearls — that are her bestsellers, adored as much by Dubai residents as visitors. Kanso’s collections for men and women span rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and cuff links, along with Tiny Bling, her range of jewelry designed for babies.
Orient 499
Lebanese artisans work with glass, fabrics, copper, and much more to create the clothes, home goods, and accessories showcased at Orient 499. Kanso says the brand “represents the region in a very elegant way,” preserving and elevating Lebanon’s craft heritage through items like handcrafted olive oil soaps and abayas (full-length garments) made with Loro Piana cashmere.
Mirzam Chocolate
At its welcoming bean-to-bar factory in the industrial Al Quoz district, Mirzam infuses its chocolates with ingredients from across maritime spice routes. Pop into the sunny café for a sea-salt drinking chocolate or Kanso’s favorite brownie (“to die for”), and leave with a box of chocolate-covered Emirati honeycomb or truffles made from toasted white chocolate and a touch of cardamom — a riff on the much-loved local dessert aseeda.
A new guard of fine-dining chefs is prioritizing flavors and creativity over gold flakes and caviar
Trèsind Studio’s dish of ghee roast crab, burnt cinnamon, and curry leaf crisp is almost too pretty to eat.
How many flavor combinations did I experience at Orfali Bros, the unfussy bistro run by a trio of Syrian brothers? A “corn bomb” bite piled, like fresh snow, with shavings of 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano, coating my lips, my dish, my lap — but my ecstatic self didn’t care. The Wagyu beef kebab came topped with sour cherry, pine nuts, parsley, and a dusting of cinnamon; the Orfalis’ version of the Turkish eggplant dish imam bayildi was dressed with makdous muhammara, a rich red-pepper-and-walnut dip, and nasturtium flowers. Lunch and dinner menus change regularly, and rules are frequently and gleefully broken.
Amid Dubai’s collection of fine-dining restaurants, chef Himanshu Saini’s Trèsind Studio stands out with its open-kitchen theatricality and tasting menu spotlighting all four corners of India: the Thar Desert, the Deccan plateau, the coastal plains, and the northern plains and Himalayas. Yes, it’s white-linen tablecloth dining in a five-star hotel, but the experience is far from stuffy. How can it be, when vibrant chaats and crab curry land on your table? There are only 20 tables; reserve well in advance.
On the rooftop of Eden House, a residential tower in the historic Al Satwa neighborhood, Moonrise is a 12-seat chef’s counter — and one of Dubai’s buzziest restaurants. Credit locally raised chef Solemann Haddad, a largely self-taught 27-year-old, whose 10-course omakase menu blends Japanese and Middle Eastern techniques and tastes. Twice-nightly seatings serve up colorful, creative dishes like cured hamachi sashimi with Syrian sumac, preserved lemon, and dill; or a foie gras puri with date syrup, saffron and pineapple chutney, and autumn truffle. You’re in good hands.
Beloved by residents, Arabian Tea House, in the Al Fahidi Historic District, caters to all, with a robust, diner-like menu serving Emirati, American, and European breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea (though I was advised, wisely, by my server that the latter is “too much for one person, too many sweets”). Kids will love the pancakes in the shape of a camel; I lingered happily over my grilled Halloumi salad with avocado, cucumber, tomato, and pomegranate seeds in a white wicker chair beneath a fig tree growing through the roof of the dining room.
A ’90s hip-hop soundtrack sets the tone as guests settle into their wide-armed black leather chairs at Jun’s and chef Kelvin Cheung prepares third-culture dishes that are equal parts nostalgic and inventive. The affable 44-year-old grew up in a traditional Chinese home in Toronto and Chicago, where he worked in his father’s restaurant; later, he spent a decade honing his skills in India. The rainbow heirloom carrots with smoked labneh, soy honey butter, and candied walnuts on housemade sourdough reveal his North American–Asian influences — and nod to the smoked salmon on a bagel Cheung’s mother would make for school lunch to help him fit in as a Canadian kid. The Wagyu beef and broccoli with rice noodles evokes its own sense memory, of comfort food from a hawker stall in Singapore. Opt for the 11-course tasting menu to sample the globe-spanning flavors.
—L.D.R.
As Dubai continues to evolve culturally, an art-house cinema and its owner have led the way for a growing community of artists, creatives, and designers on Alserkal Avenue
Vintage posters and a chandelier give Cinema Akil a nostalgic feel. Photo: Anna Nielsen.
Butheina Kazim. Photo: Neeraj Murali.
The theater’s scarlet-toned interior. Photo: Anna Nielsen.Butheina Kazim, founder of Cinema Akil, the region’s first art-house movie theater, has been at the forefront of Dubai’s cultural scene for the past decade, breaking boundaries with programming from the UAE and beyond. Cinema Akil’s permanent base in the Alserkal Avenue arts district (see “The Perfect Walk”) draws a cool crowd of indie film fans who stop for smashed samosas at the on-site chai shop before settling in for a screening. The flagship has just been joined by a new offshoot at the 25Hours Hotel One Central. Kazim’s programming ranges from French, Palestinian, and Arab film festivals to feel-good classics to Wong Kar-Wai retrospectives: a lineup of regional and global voices that both creates community and offers old-fashioned entertainment. Kazim spoke with Further about her theater, Dubai’s creative scene, and where to go for a cultural fix.
We began Cinema Akil as a nomadic cinema in 2014 in response to what we perceived as a growing need for deeper conversations around cinema, and to present a more diverse representation of filmmaking outside of the multiplex offerings. We continued our UAE-wide pop-ups for four years, and opened our permanent space in Alserkal Avenue in 2018, a major milestone for us as it meant we had a box office open 365 days a year.
We want to make sure independent and art-house cinema from Southwest Asia and North Africa is represented here. We’re very in touch with our audiences, and going beyond the films we present is an important part of our work. I think our biggest contribution has been to elevate the moving image and celebrate regional stories while also creating a place for the community to congregate.
Culture is everywhere here — all it takes is some curiosity to find it. For me, the most special aspect of Dubai is its very specific kind of diversity that celebrates the region we’re in. Some of the kindest and most interesting people I’ve met in my life live here, and I think that’s what ultimately makes a city a place. It’s the people that are in it, and how they come together and support each other.
—N.C.
Two of Dubai’s skyline-defining towers — and the perspectives they offer on the city’s ambitions
The Burj Khalifa piercing through the fog. Photo: © Naufal MQ/Getty.
The Burj Al Arab soars over Jumeirah Beach. Photo: Yadid Levy.In January 2010, after six years, $1.5 billion, and 22 million man-hours of construction, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai became the world’s tallest tower (burj in Arabic) — a 2,716.5-foot needle seeming to pierce the sky. Despite competition from China and Malaysia, no other building has bested the record holder, which houses condos, offices, and an Armani Hotel. From the 160th floor — the highest occupied story on the planet — residents can look down on the Burj Khalifa’s own New Year’s Eve fireworks. Visitors who endure the hour-long queue to get to the 124th-floor helicopter-level observation deck can see multiple emirates; VIP entry to the lounge and outdoor terrace (floors 152 through 154, $200) skips the line and pairs possible vertigo with a glass of bubbly or tea. From the ground, the building twinkles with its own nightly light display, like a retired rocket turned tourist attraction. Nearby palm trees seem to blink and wink at passersby, fronds lit from above, a kinetic show of Dubai’s pursuit of the mostest.
Yet what’s in a title? The Burj Khalifa may hold the record, but the Burj Al Arab (“Tower of the Arabs”) off the man-made shores of Jumeirah Beach is the most beloved statement piece in the superlative-laden skyline. Designed by British architect Tom Wright and opened in 1999, the postmodern, sail-shaped hotel — deemed “7 stars” and inspiring breathless hotel marketers ever since — was itself once the tallest, the most expensive, the this, the that. It was a symbol of Dubai’s ambition and audacity. Now merely the 23rd-tallest building in Dubai, there’s something akin to nostalgia for the Burj Al Arab’s Teflon-coated exterior and royal-red interiors — but also admiration for its elegant curves and lightness, as if the hotel may actually catch a good wind gust and sail off across the Arabian Sea. Night and day, from all angles, it seems imbued with a fluttering, uplifting spirit, like a lighthouse beacon showing Dubai the way into the next century.
—L.D.R.
Five highly selective options from frequent visitors and locals
“Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf is my staycation go-to. Rooms are grouped together in small ‘summerhouses’ that feel like individual boutique hotels, accessible by buggy or little abra boats motoring along the canals. You’re right on Dubai’s best beach and connected to the three other Jumeirah Madinat hotels, along with their fantastic restaurants.”
— Nicola Chilton
Contributing editor, Condé Nast Traveller Middle East
“Shaped like a ocean wave, the Jumeirah Beach Hotel is the calmer, quieter cousin of the bustling Madinat complex, with a long, sandy stretch of beach and attendants passing coconut ice lollies as you lounge on a sun bed facing the iconic Burj Al Arab. I love the traditional Arabic dishes — and the spiced grilled prawn the size of my hand — at Nuska Beach, followed by a nightcap at Floor 24, a rooftop bar with views of skyscrapers and stars alike.”
— Sara Hamdan
Dubai-based author of What Will People Think? (out May 2025)
“I loved staying in the heart of a souk at Al Seef Heritage Hotel, Curio Collection by Hilton — especially the ability to open the handcrafted wooden shutters onto views of spice and garment sellers below, or the five-minute stroll to the lobby (rooms are dispersed among heritage buildings), picking up a Turkish coffee along the way.”
— Laura Dannen Redman
Further Executive Editor
“It might be the new kid on the block, but the One&Only One Za’abeel is already a standout, thanks to its jaw-dropping architecture and sweeping views, but also the softer touches like the fluffiest slippers and robes around and the collagen-infused chocolate-covered dates served after every spa treatment.”
— Sarah Khan
Further Editor-at-Large
“There’s so much to love about The Lana, the new Dorchester Collection hotel, from the striking yet soft architecture to the delicate afternoon tea imported from The Dorchester London. But the highlight for me was taking in the 360° desert-meets-downtown views at sunset from the rooftop pool while sipping on a feta cheese gin cocktail inspired by the Ancient Greeks.”
— Chrissie McClatchie
Travel journalist
With the desert at your doorstep, there are plenty of reasons to skip the city for a day or longer
Hiking in Hatta. Photo: Courtesy Dubai Economy + Tourism.
In the courtyard of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Photo: Irjaliina Paavonpera.The UAE’s capital, Abu Dhabi, is as close to Dubai as New York City is to Philadelphia — under 90 minutes by taxi, Uber, or the local rideshare app, Careem (fare around $100) — and makes for an easy day trip focusing on the city’s captivating architecture. ADMIRE the massive Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, a white marble icon that houses 40,000 worshippers. The terrific (and free!) 45-minute guided tours explore the intricate mosaic courtyard, towering minarets, and the rest of the grounds (closed for prayers Friday mornings and afternoons). ESCAPE the midday heat at the Louvre Abu Dhabi, a Jean Nouvel–designed latticework beauty on Saadiyat Island. The collection — much of it on loan from 17 museums across France — ranges from Paleolithic-era artifacts to contemporary Arab art. EAT a late lunch at Parisian brasserie Fouquet’s before heading to Qasr Al Watan, the presidential palace, where visitors can get a quick education in Emirati governance, punctuated by an outdoor light show every night at 8 p.m.
Coming soon-ish: A new high-speed passenger train, Etihad Rail, will connect the two UAE hubs in 50 minutes. Construction began in 2024.
Kayaking above Hatta Dam. Photo: Courtesy Dubai Economy + Tourism.There’s something very appealing about pairing days in Dubai’s megalopolis with a night (or longer) in a geodesic dome in the desert. About 90 minutes southeast of the city, straddling the Hajar Mountains bordering Oman, Hatta is a destination for hikers, mountain bikers, and adventure seekers looking for a new perspective on the emirate, perhaps dangling from a zip line or strapped to a paraglider. CHECK IN to one of the 15 new glamping domes spread amid the rocky canyons — like roughing it with a living room. Each has a king bed, two single sofa beds, a bathroom, TV, mini fridge, and private BBQ and firepit on the outdoor terrace, a prime spot for stargazing. DINE on everything from shakshouka and kebabs to espresso and pistachio ice cream served up by the nearby food trucks and restaurants in Hatta Wadi Hub — the perfect ending to a day spent careening around the desert.
The mirage-like Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara.Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara appears like a desert cliché — a mirage, an oasis, a James Bond set — amid the undulating dunes of Rub‘ al-Khali, the largest uninterrupted sand sea in the world. This stretch of the Arabian Desert is called the Empty Quarter, though it’s still within a 3.5-hour drive of Dubai (and 90 minutes from Abu Dhabi); its isolation is part of the allure. LOOK FOR the lamplight and scalloped edges of the resort’s beautiful stone villas, which mimic a caravanserai — a roadside inn where merchants could overnight on the Silk Road — though one fit for Emirati royalty. SETTLE IN to one of the oversize rooms and suites, which have sprawling outdoor balconies and terraces, or a one- to four-bedroom villa with private pools, butler service, and sunset views that inspire poetry. SHUTTLE via electric buggy between the four restaurants, Moroccan hammam and spa, and padel courts during your leisurely getaway. PARTAKE in fat-biking, camel riding, dune bashing, and otherwise chasing thrills across the desert just outside your doorstep.
—L.D.R.
Photo: Anna Nielsen.The best deal in town costs 2 dirham ($0.27) and only lasts about five minutes — but oh, what a blissful breather it is. Starting at 6 a.m. daily, a cadre of 150 abras, or traditional wooden ferry boats, carry city dwellers back and forth across the Dubai Creek. Some are heading to work at the Gold or Spice Souks on the Deira side, others are playing tourist in the historic Al Seef and Al Fahidi districts. Or vice versa. Me? I prefer the journey itself — sharing a simple wooden bench at golden hour as we abra (“cross” in Arabic) on an impromptu sunset cruise.
—L.D.R.
READ
Deepak Unnikrishnan unravels the stories of Temporary People — 28 migrant workers who helped build Dubai from scratch — in a fictional riff on the city’s expat majority.
LEARN
Ivy League professor Todd Reisz’s Showpiece City — How Architecture Made Dubai is a thoughtful, accessible examination of the commissioning of Dubai’s skyline through the 1970s.
LISTEN
What started as Kerning Cultures, a conversation between two Emirati women about the Middle East, has grown into a mini media empire. Start with the OG podcast, which The Guardian called “This American Life of the Middle East.”
STREAM
Among the first Emirati feature films to receive wide acclaim, City of Life (2009) is a counterpoint to Dubai’s rep as over the top — an urban drama with a multiracial ensemble cast that paints a more complex picture of the ever-maturing city.
DOWNLOAD
The do-it-all app Careem is Dubai’s go-to for rideshare…and bikeshare, grocery shopping, restaurant and pharmacy deliveries, you name it.
Thanks to the grand(iose) investment in its architecture, Dubai’s skyline is unlike any other in the world, a toddler’s shape sorter of innovative skyscrapers by world-class architects. Don’t forget to look up
All our recommendations on a Google Map — save it to your phone so you’re ready to hit the town
Nicola Chilton writes about travel and culture for publications around the world, and is a contributing editor at Condé Nast Traveller Middle East. She lives in Dubai.
Laura Dannen Redman is Executive Editor of Further.
Avni Doshi is a writer based in Dubai. Her debut novel, Burnt Sugar, was a finalist for the 2020 Booker Prize and the 2021 PEN/Hemingway Award, among other honors, and has been published in 26 languages. Her writing has also appeared in British Vogue, Granta, and the Sunday Times.
Sara Hamdan is a Dubai-based travel and tech journalist and editor, with bylines appearing in the New York Times and Travel + Leisure. Her new novel, What Will People Think?, comes out in May 2025.
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