Our favorite oyster bars across the seven seas
Hog Island Oyster Co.’s Sweetwaters served up at its farm in Marshall, California. Photo: Courtesy Remy Anthes/Hog Island Oyster Co. Hog Island Oyster Co.’s Sweetwaters served up at its farm in Marshall, California. Photo: Courtesy Remy Anthes/Hog Island Oyster Co. By Julie Qiu /
December 11, 2024
Oysters have long been both the humble sustenance of the working class and an indulgence prized by the elite. Only relatively recently have they become the object of connoisseurship — an appreciation that any given oyster has its own unique essence. An oyster’s merroir derives not only from its species (dozens are cultivated worldwide, five of them in North America) but from where it grew, who nurtured it, and when it is being enjoyed. Some oysters are meaty and metallic, others lean sweet, grassy, or creamy. Land, tides, and climate all leave their imprint, and the hand of the oyster farmer, heavy or light, affects everything from the shape of the shell to the texture of the meat.
That nearly endless variety makes the oyster bar a destination for discovery, a place where you might compare the bracing salinity of an ocean-grown oyster to the buttery sweetness of one cultivated upriver. The rituals of oyster service — shucking, plating, pairing — add another layer of depth. Should the oyster be flipped to highlight its plump underside, or left untouched in its natural state? Topped with a few drops of mignonette, a squeeze of citrus, or, the purist’s preference, nothing at all? One rule is sacrosanct: Always chew. That is the only way to unlock an oyster’s full complexity, from its initial briny burst to the lingering minerality, creamy mouthfeel, or sweet finish.
In service of my blog, In a Half Shell, I’ve had the privilege to sample many oyster bars around the world. What distinguishes the truly exceptional spots are an unwavering commitment to quality sourcing, a deep respect for the oyster’s journey from sea to table, and the mastery of opening and presenting oysters with precision and care — rarer than you’d think! Some bars emphasize variety, such as the meticulously curated selection of East, West, and Gulf Coast varieties at Kimball House in Decatur, Georgia; or the global perspective of Hong Kong’s Open Oyster, where oysters flown in from around the world are served alongside a flight of exceptional wines — merroir meets terroir. But other bars create a decidedly local experience. The five below are some of the most memorable.
A mixed platter of oysters on the half shell at Hog Island’s outpost in San Francisco’s Ferry Building Marketplace. Photo: Courtesy Ed Anderson/Hog Island Oyster Co.
La Grève sits above the oyster-growing claires in La Tremblade, France. 
To squeeze or not to squeeze? Ultimately, it’s the taster’s choice. Photo: Courtesy Alastair Bett/Get Shucked Oyster Farm.HOG ISLAND OYSTER CO.
For many, the “oyster epiphany” happens at Hog Island’s farm along scenic Tomales Bay in Sonoma County, an immersive, harvest-to-table experience that combines serene views with a hands-on connection to oyster growing. One of only two oyster farms worldwide cultivating five distinct species (the other is Taylor Shellfish, in Puget Sound, Washington), Hog Island produces vegetal Sweetwaters from Tomales Bay; briny and crisp Highwaters from Humboldt Bay; sweet and petite Kumamotos; umami-forward Hog Island Atlantics; and minerally, tide-tumbled Earthquake Bays. Each oyster is expertly shucked and served at waterfront picnic tables with a tangy, jalapeño-flecked mignonette — or grilled and bathed in smoky, savory chipotle bourbon butter. Hog Island also curates top picks from other East and West Coast oyster farms, culminating in a tasting experience that is diverse as it is exciting, both here and at its other NorCal locations, including the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco.
LA GRÈVE
The French département of Charente-Maritime, just north of Bordeaux, has produced France’s finest oysters for centuries — Louis XIV was a fan — and the port town of La Tremblade is a pilgrimage spot for bivalve lovers. Among the huîtres dégustations (small tasting houses) perched above the estuaries outside town, La Grève is a standout. The cheery, mustard-yellow cottage is a welcoming place to sample the celebrated Marennes-Oléron oyster, whose layered complexity and sweet finish are the result of a unique finishing process called affinage. In the weeks before harvesting, the oysters are transferred from the open sea to shallow tide-fed ponds called claires. There they absorb nutrients that enhance their flavor and texture — including blue diatom, a type of microalgae that gives the gills a beautiful teal hue. From the expansive terrace overlooking the silvery-blue marshes, visitors can savor oysters with classic mignonette with a glass of chilled Champagne or Chablis, refreshed by sea breezes.
OYSTER HOUSE KODAHARU
Just a short walk from Shimbashi Station, the charming Oyster House Kodaharu highlights Japan’s oyster diversity through every preparation imaginable: raw, fried, steamed, even oyster shumai. Kodaharu emphasizes provenance, sourcing Pacific oysters from across Japan and reflecting the rich variety of the nation’s coastal regions and seasons (the hand-drawn map on the wall is a helpful reference). Hand-harvested iwagaki “rock” oysters, for instance, are a spring-to-summer delicacy known for their exceptional size, creamy texture, and sweet, minerally finish. In autumn and winter, Kodaharu’s oyster hot pot brims with seasonal vegetables, soy-milk butter, yuzu kosho, and fresh oysters, all swimming in a spicy, umami-rich dashi. Kodaharu’s sake program — with more than 30 bottles on offer, including an all-you-can-drink option — complements the oysters’ natural flavor.
DIBBA BAY OYSTER FARM SHOP
Oysters grown in the Gulf of Oman that rival top French varieties? It may sound improbable, yet Dibba Bay Oysters has disrupted the UAE’s luxury oyster market, winning the hearts of Emiratis and expats alike while challenging the dominance of premium international brands. Dibba Bay’s Pacific oysters, farmed in the waters off the emirate of Fujairah, have a firm, meaty texture, sugar kelp notes, and a rich, brothy finish; thoughtful cultivation methods highlight the oysters’ natural umami. Despite the posh branding — a black-and-gold embossed logo worthy of high-end caviar — Dibba Bay’s farm shop in Dubai is refreshingly approachable, housed in a refurbished shipping container by Jumeirah Fishing Harbour. The chalkboard menu features raw and grilled oysters paired with seasonal sauces and locally inspired garnishes — a bright yuzu mignonette; a shawarma-spiced butter — tailored to the shellfish’s fat and glycogen content. And Dubai being Dubai, you can elevate the experience with Sevruga caviar bumps and a glass of 0.0 Champagne.
GET SHUCKED OYSTER BAR
A scenic, 20-minute ferry ride from Kettering, about two hours south of Hobart, brings you to rustic Bruny Island and the laid-back oasis that is Get Shucked Oyster Bar. The farmstand setup, framed by lush greenery and pristine bay views, sets the stage for the star attraction: fresh and plump Pacific oysters, harvested daily just a stone’s throw away, shining with bold flavors and a distinctly Australian charm. True to old-school Oz style, the oysters here are rinsed before serving; purists may miss the briny liquor, but the throwback to a way of enjoying oysters is increasingly uncommon. The cooked offerings — Kilpatrick oysters topped with smoky bacon and Worcestershire sauce, or the crunchy, golden panko-coated oysters — pair effortlessly with a local beer. An off-the-beaten-path and quintessentially Tasmanian experience. 
Julie Qiu is an international oyster sommelier, co-founder of the Oyster Master Guild, and creator of the In a Half Shell blog. Her work has been featured in the New York Times, Bon Appétit, Fast Company, Vogue, the Chicago Tribune, and USA Today.
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