4:37 p.m., December 5, 2019, Waimea Bay, O‘ahu

  • Photographs by Brown W. Cannon III /

  • Text by Bonnie Tsui /

  • September 17, 2024

Big-wave surfers Mark Healey and Kohl Christensen, and Kohl’s young daughter Mehana (then two years old), were swimming around Waimea Bay during the opening ceremony of the 2019 Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational when photographer Brown W. Cannon III shot this arresting image. “I was swimming below them: Mark is looking at Mehana, and Kohl is looking out,” says Cannon, whose award-winning work has been featured by Travel + Leisure, National Geographic, and Outside, among others. “You see the hands that extend beyond the frame — there’s more connection going outward. I wanted to let the viewer be part of that circle, that celebration, and feel close to all these people, the community here that embraces everyone.”

The legendary coastline of O‘ahu’s North Shore is the focus of Cannon’s book NORTH, an intimate chronicle of the surf community and culture of Hawai‘i. The photographs in the book, all taken between 2009 and 2023, are accompanied by talk-story interviews by journalists Steve Hawk and Bruce Jenkins. “The circle of family and the meaning of ‘ohana — the idea that the family extends beyond our own bloodlines to the larger community — the multigenerational aspects of surfing, of passing the love of water down to everyone’s kids. That’s what this book is about,” Cannon says. “From a photography standpoint, low and looking up, there’s a majesty to the image, but a softness, too. Mehana has this really intense look, she’s a little skeptical, but she’s like, OK, you’re in the circle, you’re good. I wanted people to feel what I felt in that moment.”

NORTH was published in October 2023 by Damiani. Below, Cannon reflects on additional images from the book.

Bonnie Tsui is the author of Why We Swim, Sarah and the Big Wave, and the upcoming On Muscle. She lives, swims, and surfs in the San Francisco Bay Area.

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