Yes, We’d Fly to Bali for This Crazy Delicious Doughnut

Nobody flies 24 hours in a plane for a doughnut. Right? I mean, you know this.

But then you find yourself staring raptly into the purple glaze of the Balinese Mulberry Ricotta Botanical Bomboloni at The Powder Room, a patisserie-café-hangout on the jungly edge of Ubud. As the barista pulls a pretty perfect shot of locally roasted espresso to pull you out of the fuzz of jet lag, you gaze into the mulberry sheen of the doughnut and can almost see your reflection. It’s mesmerizing, this thing: shellacked with the essence of those fruit trees just outside, stuffed with housemade ricotta cream, on the verge of bursting. And in that moment — the morning sun coming in off Jalan Sanggingan in leafy-dreamy Kedewatan, the smell of great coffee in the air, and a case full of pastel doughnuts filled with roselle jam and Indonesian vanilla cream, babkas laced with Thai tea, and very good croissants — you can also see yourself starting every day here, even if it’s a very long way from home.

The Powder Room, which bills itself as “Candy Store and Natural Wines” but also hosts occasional jazz dances and pastry classes, was born from the fertile imagination of Will Goldfarb, expat chef, pastry genius, full-time dreamer, and creator of Room 4 Dessert, which has been drawing international crowds for sweets-focused tasting experiences for a decade (it now also serves a full savory menu). Next door to the restaurant, Goldfarb is growing a forest to supply both endeavors. And he just opened an eight-room guesthouse, with what will surely soon be one of the most Instagrammed pools in Bali.

All you need to know, though, is if you’re in Bali — or would consider a long-haul flight or maybe relocating for a truly great ricotta-filled doughnut glazed with fruits grown on property — this is the place to be for morning coffee leading into all-day snacking. From the handmade chocolates and kombucha and pandan-flavored gummies and soursop soft serve, to the cat on the sign for the loo and the general happy feel of the place, Goldfarb and his dedicated crew have created a sweet landing in all senses.

Adam Sachs, the director of Silversea’s S.A.L.T. (Sea and Land Taste) program, will travel for doughnuts. The former Editor-in-Chief of Saveur, he is a three-time James Beard Foundation Award winner.